Catalunya is possibly one of the regions with more culture in the whole of Spain. Obviously, every single region is packed with traditions and with a calendar splashed with countless local fiestas and national or autonomous bank holidays. And even more so as Summer rushes round the corner, with the usual heat, laziness and relaxed atmosphere for which Spain is known around the world. And Sant Joan (Saint John) is much more celebrated in Catalunya than it is in the rest of Spain, so to not go out onto the streets to build a bonfire, throw fireworks, eat the regional “coca” (traditional cake) and drink wine would be almost sinful in the eyes of Catalans. And especially at Montserrat, known to have been a crib to Catalan patriotism and regional identity for such a long time.
It is tradition that a flame is lit at Catalunya's “sacred mountain”, called the Canigo, in the Pyrenees, which is then passed on, rather in the same way as the Olympic flame, in different directions towards every town and city in Catalunya. The flame which reached Montserrat arrived at around 11:30 pm, 23rd June, escorted by runners from the nearby town of Igualada, who had completed the semi-impossible by running from their town all the way up the steep slopes of Montserrat mountain. They were closely followed by a few other runners bringing with them a twenty or so metre long Catalan flag.
The flame was then thrown onto the pyre of wood which was placed outside the main church building and a night of merry drinking and eating, along with fireworks, quickly ensued. Like I said, there is no better way to experience a last night in Barcelona than this!
However, the most amazing sight had not yet happaned. The Room With The View (my room in the school) faces towards Barcelona, with many small towns along the way, interspersed between small hills and larger mountains. Once I reached my room in the early hours of the morning, I could see that celebrations had only just got into full swing in other places: small bursts of light which happened every split second confirmed that most other people had only just started a long night of celebrating Sant Joan and the official start of Summer for Catalans.
Revetlla de Sant Joan a Montserrat |
Over the next three or four minutes I felt like there was no better way to see Sant Joan than from above. My view was not restricted by buildings, there was only air between me and all the lights away and beyond the edges of the mountain on top of which I was. Regular bursts of light and minuscule showers disturbed the normally flickering lights, but tonight the whole area around and under me was blazing with explosions and distant rumblings. A sight to remember for a long time and a better way to experience Sant Joan there could not be!
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